The ancient Bai Dinh pagoda sits 187m above sea level on top of Dinh Mountain. Dating back over a thousand years, it is oriented towards the west and flanked by two caves. The pagoda nestles into one cave, which is not uncommon among old pagodas in Vietnam. To get to the pagoda, you have to climb 300 steps. Do Ngoc Anh is a tour guide: "There’s a cave called Enlightened Cave. King Le Thanh Tong engraved ideograms there praising the beauty of the site. The ceiling of the cave forms the solid roof of the pagoda which is dedicated to the Buddha and the Mother Goddess. The altar in the cave is decorated with traditional Buddha statues”.

At the bottom of Enlightened Cave is a large exit which offers a great view of a distant green valley. About 1 km from Bai Dinh pagoda is the complex of a new pagoda. The new pagoda sits on Ba Dau hillside, overlooking Dam lake and the Hoang Long River. 500 Arhat statues flank the two paths that lead from the main gate to the shrine. These paths which are about 1,700m long symbolize the Arhats’ path to Buddhism. They are the longest Arhat paths in Asia. Do Ngoc Anh: "The statues of Arhats were carved from blue stone by the artisans of Ninh Binh province. Each statue is between 2 and 2.5 meters tall and weighs 2 to 2.5 ton. They are placed on both sides of the path to guide the common people to the light of Buddhism. The statues have different forms and different expressions reflecting all human moods: joy, anger, satisfaction, frustration. At the foot of each statue is the name of the Arhat”.

The new Bai Dinh pagoda is a giant complex that extends from the main entrance to the sanctuary of Shakyamuni Buddha, the bell tower and the shrine to Kwan Yi, Buddhism’s Lady of Mercy. The bell tower is built on three levels. Octagonal in shape, it houses a 36-ton bronze bell which is the largest in Vietnam. Just below the bell is a 70-ton bronze drum. Local people believe that where they can still hear the sound of the bell, they are under the blessing of the Buddha.

The bronze statues of Kwan Yi and Shakyamuni Buddha are also the biggest ones in Vietnam. The sanctuary of the past, present and future Buddha houses three huge statues of the three temporal forms of the Buddha. Vu Anh Quan, a tourist from Dalat, is impressed by their size: “I had already seen those statues on TV and I knew they were enormous. But the reality is far more spectacular. These statues are gold showing their majestic and splendid side. I am not surprised to learn that they hold the record for Vietnam’s largest statues of the Buddha, past, present, and future”.

The 6th day of the first lunar month is the main day of the pilgrimage feast of Bai Dinh pagoda. Tens of thousands of pilgrims flock to the pagoda to pay homage to the Buddha and visit this great site. Lai Ngoc Nga is a pilgrim: "I make a pilgrimage to Bai Dinh pagoda every year. This is a sacred place and we do not feel tired even after walking for many kilometers. I always pray for health and luck for my family”.

Bai Dinh is a major attraction of Ninh Binh province, along with the Hoa Lu ancient capital, the Tam Coc-Bich Dong caves and Cuc Phuong National Park.

Le Phuong