Yem or brassier was an indispensable part in Vietnamese women’s attire of all social stratas. In the 18^th and 19^th centuries, Yem was a square piece of cloth with one cut-out corner to fit the neck. The popular designs were round-neck, V-neck, and deep V-neck. Yem had spaghetti neck-strings tied behind the neck and the two waist-strings to tie the two lower corners.

(photo: hanoimoi.com.vn)

In the early 20^th century, Yem was modified with various designs. Nguyen Thi Thu Thuy, a member of the Hanoi’s Old Quarter Management Committee, said: “Although Yem is a form of underwear, we organized this exhibition because it portrays the beauty of women. By studying Yem designs, colors, and materials, we can learn something about the social status of Vietnamese women. Women in high-ranking families wore pink or light yellow silk and brocade Yem. Common people wore raw fabric of darker colors.”

The exhibition also celebrates silk weaving, one of the traditional crafts in Thang Long, now Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Thuy again: “The exhibition introduces the history and development of an age-old trade guild. Thang Long – Hanoi was one of a cluster of several guilds. Hang Dao street specialized in silk products and Dong Lac temple in Hang Dao street was the center of silk Yem production.”

Yem of various designs and materials are displayed at the exhibition

Fashions have changed and Yem is no longer widely used nowadays. Yem and traditional costumes should be preserved as a vital cultural item. Du Visitor Ngoc Han said: “I can imagine the costumes of Vietnamese women in the past. Yem enhanced women’s charm and grace. It’s interesting to see tools and materials to make the silk cloth. I hope contemporary fashion designers will integrate the image of Yem in their modern products.” 

Han, a Singaporean tourist, visits the exhibition: “The exhibition has a lot of historical photos and documents. I have learned more about Hanoi in the past and the life of local residents.”

The exhibition will continue until December 31^st.